Easing thirty at Elementaita

It is to be a self pitying post today, after the bleak barrage of abuse following last weeks post. Suffice it to say, you know who you are and my eyes are narrowed in contemplation of your treachery. ‘Cantankerous old git’ hey? In the ornery run of things one would be upset on being on the receiving end of such vitriol but the depression of becoming old has rendered meaningless others opinions.

But apparently 30 is the next milestone birthday after 21. I imagine because 30 is really, really, really, quite incredibly old – one foot in the grave and pining for the Fjords. So Jo took me away to the sunny shores of Lake Elementaita for a few days to cheer me up.

 

Our hotel, the Sunbird Lodge as chosen by Joanna, was a luxury eco-lodge complete with swimming pool. It was cold and Edd was proved to be the biggest wimp, jumping into the pool, emitting a girly shriek, and running for the warmth whilst Jo swan bravely on. Amazingly, we got hot water bottles placed in our bed whilst we were having dinner leading to an, as yet unfulfilled, resolution to acquire some for home use.

Lake Elementaita is (as you may already have guessed?) a soda lake in the rift valley. As is becoming boringly normal, it is very beautiful and teems with birds, buffalo and other exotic beasts. A fabulously lazy and relaxing time was had wondering by the lake shore and gawking at the flamingos and pelicans, although we did take a local with us for the buffalo.

These beasts are the original ‘cantankerous old gits’. When they are in a group they are docile. In this state they can be safely approached with no other danger than accidently making eye contact and being made stupid by the incredible vacant dumbness of their gaze. However, every now and then the dominant male gets booted out of the heard and grumpily goes on the rampage (which is fair enough really). They reportedly watch cars at junctions, and upon discerning the direction of travel trot off for a future ambush. What fun they have. A bus hit one at 140kph recently. The buffalo survived but the bus did not. You don’t want to mess…

 

We also went to the Menengai Crater, an 11km wide volcanic caldera, filled with twisting lava flows and people making charcoal and (yawn) very beautiful. Having got a taxi to the highest point (which many of the locals shun – the loosing side in a Maasai battle were shuffled off the mortal coil by shuffling (being shoved?) over the edge), we were offered a guided walk by an enterprising shopkeeper, an offer that we, along with our driver took up. Rather brilliantly, our driver (who was a really nice and friendly guy) actually made us feel young and fit. Once we had walked the 400m down into the crater he conked, and had to take rests every 10-15 meters. So tired was he when we got to the top that I ended up driving his car home.

A great time was had by all, and we have grown personally by braving Kenyan public transport. We also learned another important lesson. Our matatu had an 'all things are possible for those that love the Lord' sticker. So they proved, as our matatu drove up the middle of the road in a traffic jam. Fine if you are a motor bike, not so good if you are a bus. Especially not when a bus coming the other way has the same idea...